Agathoune!

As a native New Englander, I learned that downhill skiing meant wearing six layers of wool clothing, thick face-cover, triple socks and the occasional mitten warmer to survive the -15F  (-26C) wind-chilled New Hampshire slopes.  Also don’t forget your well-sharpened skis to grip all of the ice patches that were bound to appear on the 2000 ft “mountains” where I grew up.  With this in mind, it was a real pleasure to discover skiing in the French Alps, where even the smallest ski areas tend to have multiple peaks, awe-inspiring views and slopes covered in snow instead of ice!

The Long and Winding Road

Before you can ski in the French Alps, you first have to survive the climb to the ski station.  This means driving up narrow, winding mountain roads in caterpillar formation with cars full of skiers on all sides.  Inevitably, also expect the guy behind you to tailgate the entire way, despite the fact that if he passed you he’d still be behind hundreds of other cars also heading to the ski area.  Throughout this time, you must constantly scan the road for black ice and never look at the spectacular views to avoid drifting into the other lane or falling into the thousand meter abyss appearing just over the ancient brick and mortar guard rails that still seem to line many mountain roads.  For an added thrill, you could also opt to catch a “ski bus” that takes skiers from the city to a nearby station, where looking out the high windows as the bus winds its way up the mountain can be scarier than some roller coasters I’ve been on!

I must also mention that if it starts to snow the local police will often setup roadblocks at the bottom of critical mountain roads where they will force motorists to pull over and put on snow chains – if you forget your chains, time to turn around and go home.  For some reason (at least in the South), many French have never heard of snow tires and insist on only equipping their cars with summer tires all year round;  Perhaps they simply enjoy the finger-numbing thrill of putting on snow chains any time a storm blows in!

 

The French are also experts with jamming their cars into any available space for parking, and ski stations are no exception.  Expect the parking lots to be packed full by ~10am, with cars and recreational vehicles lined up in some strange, fractal fashion.  If you search hard enough, you’ll eventually find the single lane route that’s somehow left open through the parking lot, allowing traffic to flow.  And also be sure to watch out for the ice as you step out of the car – salting is optional!

French ski stations in the Alps vary widely in size, but even the small family ones are often huge by New England standards.  When purchasing your ticket, it is very important to ask for a ski map to navigate the labyrinth of slopes and shortcuts for connecting to the various lifts leading to different peaks.  If you need to go back to the base station, you sometimes have to mount 3-4 different peaks before connecting to a return path.  Ski slopes are also color-coded with different lines:  green/blue (circles), red (squares) and black (diamonds). 

Le Tire-Fesse

Lunch Time

If there’s one thing that French skiers like to do more than skiing, it’s also eating of course!  At many stations there are snack bars, bistrots and restaurants at the bottom, top and mid-slope.  If the ski area is sunny enough, many also have outside lounge chairs for a quick cat nap in the afternoon sun to recover from all the spiced wine served with lunch.  Although this may seem like a great way to spend the afternoon, the pleasure of eating out can also cost more than the ski ticket itself because, just like in America, restaurants in ski areas are often overpriced rip-offs.

The French can also be quite frugal and frequently bring their own coolers and picnic lunches to save on the exorbitant food prices.  The difference is that in American ski lodges you just need to find a free bench, empty your cooler on the table and have a grand old time.  However, in France it is completely rude to just sit at a random free restaurant table, even in an outside snack bar, and start eating your picnic lunch.  Often you’re left with the choice to either pay for food or join the French tailgate party in the ski area parking lot during lunch hour (unfortunately, without any music).  At this time you’ll see many families cracking open their compact hatchbacks and having some good old ham and butter baguette sandwiches with the occasional flask of “eau de vie”¹ before heading back to the slopes.

Risky Business

Unlike in America, the average French ski resort doesn’t seem too concerned with lawsuits.  They may put up a warning sign or two, but you have to be smart enough to not ski too close to cliff edges and be careful when the slope intersects a “téléski” (the official name for the “tire-fesse” ski lift).  Also, don’t be a moron and ski off the groomed trails when there is a high chance of an avalanche!  This may seem like common sense, but in America it would definitely be grounds for a lawsuit if you slipped off the sheer unfenced cliff edge that happens to be a mere 5m (15ft) from where you get off the ski lift!  In any case, don’t expect a Saint Bernard to come running to save you anytime soon.  Like many natural tourist destinations in France (mountain hiking trails, natural beaches,  etc.) the spectacular beauty can also be pretty dangerous, so try to keep in mind that you’re pretty much on your own…  In the meantime, pull out that flask of “Eau de Vie” and enjoy the stunning vista of the French Alps!  Happy Skiing!

Links

Le Vanoise Express - France boasts the biggest ski area cable car (téléphérique) in the world.  It is a massive, double decker machine that can hold over 200 people and links La Plagne and Les Arcs ski resorts in the Savoie area.  Despite its size, fortunately the laws of physics still apply!

Conduite sur Glace at Serre Chevalier  - Many of France’s bigger ski stations also have a special car circuit nearby reserved for teaching people how to drive on ice.  Basically, it’s a regular driving school where you can crank on the steering wheel, slam on the breaks and slide into snowbanks to your heart’s content!  It’s amazing what fun you can have when companies don’t have to worry so much about lawsuits…

SkiFrance.fr - the domain name is self explanatory.  Lists all the ski areas in France with webcams, snow reports and ratings

Skiset.com - Online ski rental site for many stations.  As usual in France, I’d recommend giving a call after you reserve just to double check with the rental shop that they received the email…

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1. ”eau de vie”, literally translated as “water of life”, is popular after-meal hard liquor usually made from fermented mountain flowers [↩]

February 28th, 2010 | Tags: Auron, circle, Conduite sur Glace, diamond, eau de vie, france blog, french blog, French lawsuit, French mountain roads, Gréolières, guard rails, icy ski trails, Isola 2000, Le Vanoise Express, mountain rescue, New England skiing, route de ski, Serre Chevalier, ski bus, ski parking, ski restaurants, skiing in the alps, spiced wine, square, St. Bernard, tailgate party, télésiège, téléski, tire-fesse, Valberg, wind chill | Category: Civil Society, Côte d'Azur, La France, Le Vagabond | Comments (1)

When most people think of France, they probably imagine the hexagonal country mashed in the middle of continental Europe and its stunning capital city Paris.  Although this does make up the most populous bulk of the country, France also consists of many overseas territories (Guadeloupe, Tahiti, etc.) as well as one of the largest, most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean Sea:  Corsica (”La Corse”).

The French call Corsica  ”l’Ile de Beauté” (the island of beauty) and it truly is a place of inspiring landscapes and stunning geography.  Unlike the French Riviera which has basically turned into one gigantic strip of unbridled concrete sprawl, the Corsican coastline is still virtually unspoiled, with limited construction allowed only in major cities or very small fishing towns that have been there for centuries.  In fact, if you try to build a vacation house too close to the coastline in Corsica, it is actually not an uncommon occurence for the local Corsican populace to blow it up during the off season.  A few suggestions before embarking on a building project in Corsica would include 1) having a Corsican or Italian sounding name and 2) acquiring good standing with the local population by helping to “finance” a project of public interest (something more consequential than a public bench).

Although not as well known outside of Europe, Corsica is an extremely popular summer vacation destination for many of the French.  So popular, in fact, that you literally need to reserve accommodations in October for the following summer!  On top of exorbitant rental prices, there is also the added cost of paying for the high-season Saturday car ferry crossing and also fighting against every other person in France who is driving to their vacation destinations on the same day!  However, once you’ve visited the island once, you will quickly see that it’s all worth it.

First of all, despite their penchant for blowing things up, excellent hospitality is actually a question of honor for most Corsicans.  Because of the island’s Mediterranean climate, you’re also virtually guaranteed to have sunny weather.  Hearty Corsican meats, cheese, fish and wine provide an exquisite gastronomical experience.  And, did I also mention that the entire island, with its turquoise beaches, hidden mountain villages, rolling green hills and ancient citadels, is also stunningly beautiful?

Corsicans refer to France as “le continent” (the continent) and visiting French as “du continent” (from the continent).  In fact, no true Corsican would ever say that they would willingly be part of France, and there is still an independence movement¹ on the island that occasionally will bomb a deserted town hall or post office in the middle of the night.  However, considering the massive amounts of subsidies provided by the French government for new public infrastructure projects and income supplements, it is probably in no Corsican’s interest to actually secede from France.  It is also a popular past-time to see how much money can be skimmed from the local tax authorities.  In fact, many businesses and restaurants only accept cash, so don’t forget to use that ATM when you see one!

The island itself is a hiker’s paradise.  The coastal paths are breathtaking, winding through rocky outcroppings, sandy lagoons and always not far from an ancient Genovese watchtower².  The middle of the island consists of a massive mountain chain with stunning alpine landscapes full of rocky spires, goat herders, crystal rivers and ancient bridges.  There is also a popular, high altitude hiking path (GR20) that traverses the island from North to South in 15 days with mountain refuges for weary hikers after long days of climbing the Corsican summits.

Because of its mountainous geography, the roads in Corsica are not for the faint-hearted.  The main roads are actually quite well maintained, but as soon as you turn into any side road, be prepared for hairpin turns, narrow tunnels, steep inclines and clinging to your side of the road in the hopes that other drivers stay in their lane!  Corsicans are also renown for driving extremely fast, passing everything that moves and tailgating.  A Corsican friend actually explained to me that they don’t mind slow tourists, but only the ones that don’t pull over to let them pass.  Also, always remember to honk loudly when going around a blind corner on a two-way cliff road that is actually only wide enough for one car…

Corsicans themselves are some of the most welcoming people I’ve ever met in France.  Families have lived on the island for generations and adhere to strict values of honor, tradition, family, religion and hospitality.  Ancient tombs line the roadways, speaking of a long past of family rivalries and secret vendettas (imagine Romeo and Juliet).  Road signs are in both French and Corsican to help maintain the local language.  Churches also ring with traditional Corsican music sung by male acapella groups.  The high notes are quite amazing with never ending vocal vibrations!

Links

Bonifacio - On the Southernmost tip of Corsica, despite being a massive tourist-trap, the city of Bonifacio is really worth seeing from a boat.  It is a disconcerting vision to observe the ancient houses all huddled together on a cliff that is slowly eroding into the sea.  There is also a staircase literally carved into the cliff face apparently used during a past invasion attempt!

GR20 Route Planning Information and Map - This site provides map and planning details for the difficult North/South hiking path that traverses Corsica.  Check out some stunning photos of the scenery at the bottom of the page.  Hiking boots are required!

I Muvrini - Can’t get enough of the vibrating Corsican acapella music?  Time for some I Muvrini!  I’ve also linked to a beautiful song, “Le Temps est Assassin” (Time is Deadly) the singing group performed with Véronique Sanson.

embedded by Embedded Video

YouTube DirektI Muvrini and Veronique Sanson

La Maison Bonaparte - France’s world famous Emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte, was actually a Corsican!  The house of his birth is now a museum in Ajaccio.

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1. FLNC - Fronte di Liberazione Naziunale Corsu [↩]
2. the island was ruled by the Genovese for many centuries and is surrounded by watchtowers to provide warning of invaders [↩]

September 20th, 2009 | Tags: Aiguilles de Bavella, Ajaccio, balades Corses, Bonifacio, building laws, Corse, Corsica, Corsican hiking, Corsican traditions, driving in Corsica, france blog, France ferry, french blog, goat cheese, GR20, i muvrini, Le Mare e Monti, le temps est assassin, Le Trou de la Bombe, Maison Bonaparte, NGV, sausages, Véronique Sanson | Category: La France d'Ailleurs, Le Vagabond | Comments Off

One of the great advantages of living on the French Riviera is that as an outdoors lover, you can really take advantage of the ~320 days of sunlight per year.  In particular, this means there is absolutely no excuse for not living an active life of hiking, biking, swimming, jogging, tennis, diving or other physical activities.  Compared to my rural New England homeland where you have the choice of running under a brutal sun with 100% humidity in the summer, or having your breath form frost crystals on your face as you try to keep from slipping on the sheets of ice in the plowed breakdown lane in the winter, the Riviera is truly an athlete’s paradise.

Working in a French company, I am always amazed to see the number of employees who run, swim, play a team sport or perform some other physical activity during lunchtime.  Although the French may officially work less hours than in other countries, many certainly take advantage of their relatively long lunch hour to keep in good shape (this can vary between 1-2 hours depending on daily responsibilities and job contract).  Incidentally, I’m convinced that these activities also offset other more sedentary lunch breaks spent leisurely eating a three course meal at the local “bistrot” or the occasional game of petanque.

As an avid runner, I find it’s so important to find beautiful, inspirational places to enjoy that endorphin high.  I’m always amazed to see the number of joggers next to an asphyixiating traffic jam under a burning noonday sun or choosing a route where they lose all of their cardiovascular rhythm waiting to cross multi-lane roads with speeding cars.  People are really crazy sometimes!

So for those of you who are also working or living on the “Côte d’Azur” (the Riviera), I have decided to share a list of my favorite secret nearby running spots.  Not only are these routes inspirational and convenient, but you can also run at full speed, not worry about crossing the road and truly enjoy the unique beauty of the Mediterranean Provence.  All I ask is that if you share these secrets with friends, please be sure to also give them the web address of my blog… 

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Le Cap d’Antibes

The Antibes peninsula is truly an inspirational running route.  Starting from the sandy beach of “La Salis”, you have beautiful views of rocky coves and crashing waves along the coastal road until the hidden beach of “La Garoupe” (~3 kms).  The entire route follows a well maintained sidewalk with very little traffic.  On weekend mornings there are literally swarms of bikers that follow this road, so don’t be taken by surprise from behind!  For the ambitious runner, there is also a small boardwalk portion of the peninsula’s coastal hiking path starting at “La Garoupe” that you can jog down until it narrows into a rocky trail.  An added advantage of this route is that it is lit with dim, unobtrusive street lights and therefore perfect for those early summer evening runs.  Incidentally, for travelers on a budget, the Antibes “Auberge de Jeunesse” (youth hostel) is also located nearby.

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Le Canal de la Siagne

The “Canal de la Siagne” (in the Grasse area) is one of those hidden jewels that has somehow managed to survive the massive concrete urbanization that has swept through the Riviera.  Built in 1868 to provide water for the growing city of Cannes, the canal starts in the village of Saint Cézaire where it is provisioned from the mountain river “La Siagne”.  It snakes along the foothills of the alps through terraced olive groves, pine forests and old oak trees until finally arriving 44 kms later in Cannes.

The actual path is not listed on any of the French IGN high resolution maps (only a thin blue line indicating the waterway) and finding an access point requires a bit of exploration down some very narrow roads.  Not only is the canal’s landscape strangely beautiful with its old bridges and varied vegetation, but it’s much less destructive for your knees to run on a dirt path. There are also no sudden uphills or downhills, so you can push yourself at a fast, steady pace without jarring your joints. And in the dry summer months there is also an abundance of shade and water-cooled air. Only two small suggestions: keep an eye out for the occasional snake and don’t fall in!

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Promenade des Anglais

Cough cough, gag!  Well, for most of the daylight hours that basically sums up what it’s like to run or walk on the famous “Promenade des Anglais”¹.  Although in photos it may look spectacular, Nice is a notoriously congested city and ”La Prom”² also designates the six lane road that borders the wide sidewalk, which is pretty much a non-stop traffic jam for most of the day.  On the sidewalk itself, there are designated biking and roller-blading lanes mixed in with street performers, tourist trains and baby carriages.  All of this activity and potential obstacles can make it very difficult and dangerous to have a good workout.

Fortunately, there is a simple solution to really enjoy the beauty of jogging the “Promenade des Anglais” - just get up early enough!  So, roll your butt out of bed, put on those running shorts and be inspired by the stunning turquoise waters, the grand hotels and the Provencal yellow and pink colors of Nice’s old city and castle hill.

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L’Etang de Font Merle

“L’Etang de Font Merle” (in Mougins) is a beautiful preserved pond ecosystem and bird sanctuary surrounded by a huge, grassy meadow.  The surface is almost completely covered with the massive leaves of thousands of lotus plants - the greatest concentration in Europe!  Lotus flowers are a divine symbol in many Asian religions, a metaphor of spiritual growth and beauty from our ignorant, muddy origins.  When all of the flowers are in full bloom³, ”L’Etang” is a dazzling display of serenity and inspiration.

There is a well-worn, dirt running path that follows the borders of the meadow, with one full loop equaling ~1.5 kms.  Because of the intense sun exposure, running here is recommended during the spring and fall seasons.  The surrounding meadow is also completely overrun during the weekends, with limited parking and families mashing into every square inch of grass to picnic and play games.

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Honorable Mentions

Le Cap d’Ail - With an unspoiled panorama of jagged rocks and frothing surf, the coastal path of the Cap d’Ail is an inspirational place for a run.  The only real issue is the almost inexistent parking and inconvenient access (not really near anything unless you live in Monaco).  And in the summertime the path can be a real mob-scene!

Forêt de la Valmasque - Many office workers in the Sophia-Antipolis area enjoy a brisk run in the nearby regional forest of “La Valmasque”.  Unfortunately, there are no available maps and trails are not well indicated, so it’s important to follow other runners the first few times you plunge into the forest.  Also beware of wild boars, forest fires in the summer and twisting your ankles on roots and rocks (which is why I prefer to run elsewhere).

Parc des Bouillides - In the middle of Sophia-Antipolis is a thoughtfully landscaped park perfect for running or teaching children how to ride their bikes.  There are also tennis courts, basketball courts, soccer fields and even skateboard ramps.  In the summer there is also abundant shade under the tall, ancient trees for a cool jog.  To access, take the right to “L’Auberge de la Source” immediately after the traffic light on the ”route du parc” before the Bouillides rotary.  Drive past the restaurant and stop at the entrance to the park.

La Croisette - This is the famous seafront in Cannes, where you run to be seen.  I suppose that it is convenient for people who live in Cannes, but for anyone else it’s a nightmare to park the car, not very long and not very inspiring!  Wear sunglasses and they’ll think you’re a star…

Saint Laurent du Var Seafront - There is a wide pedestrian-only seafront promenade that starts at the CAP 3000 mall until the marina.   Not only is parking easy, but at less than 1km from the airport, you can watch the planes taking off and also buy bread afterwards at the ”Paul” boulangerie in the mall!

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Links

Carte de la Valmasque - A PDF map of the “Valmasque” national forest.  If you look closely, it also includes “L’Etang de Font Merle”.  Where was this when I needed it??

Courir pour une Fleur (Run for a Flower) - A “Nice-Matin” article about the annual October Antibes 10km/20km road race around the peninsula.  With over 2500 annual participants, if you make it to the end you get a rose (although some water would probably be nicer)!

Canaldelasiagne.org - This is a site full of photos and historical references about the “Canal de la Siagne”.  It’s really worth browsing some of the stunning pictures in the “galerie”.

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1. La Promenade des Anglais is the long, wide seafront in Nice [↩]
2. ”la prom” is a frequently used nickname for “La Promenade des Anglais” [↩]
3. Lotus flowers only bloom for 3 days [↩]

April 3rd, 2009 | Tags: 320 days of sunlight, Antibes Youth Hostel, CAP 3000, Carte de la Valmasque, Courir pour une Fleur, Courir sur la Côte d'Azur, Endorphins, French lunch hour, L'Etang de Font Merle, La Croissette, la prom, La Promenade des Anglais, La Valmasque, Le Canal de la Siagne, Le Cap d'Ail, Le Cap d'Antibes, Lotus Flower, Parc des Bouillides, Paul Boulangerie, Riviera Running, Sophia-Antipolis | Category: Côte d'Azur, Le Vagabond | Comments (2)

So everyone wants to visit Paris someday, right?  That glorious city of lights, full of charm, cafés and cultural inspiration.  Who wouldn’t want to wait two hours just to take the elevator to the second floor of the Eiffel tower and then wait another two hours to take the connecting elevator to the top (and remember, you still need to go back down!)?  There is also nothing like packing yourself into one of the “bateaux mouches”¹ and floating down the Seine listening to that high definition 1960s sound system as the non-stop, looping audio program gives you such a ringing insight into Parisian history. 

And, of course, don’t forget the biggest museum in the world, the Louvre!  After an hour of waiting for your ticket, you can then rush through all the world’s greatest works of art in one multicolor blur of flash bulbs, statues, mummies and paintings for everyone’s taste!  While you’re there, be sure to see the beautiful Mona Lisa - so inspiring behind five inches of bulletproof glass and engulfed in never-ending clumps of tourists; remember, it’s all in the smile, which you might manage to see if you look close enough between camera flashes.

In all seriousness, Paris is truly one of the most inspiring, beautiful cities in the world.  If you can pull yourself away from the Parisian mega-tourism, there are so many gorgeous, culturally invigorating places to visit that many people miss out on.  Below is a list of my favorite Parisian museums somewhat off the beaten track and definitely worth visiting (especially if it’s once in a lifetime!):

Le Musée Rodin

Set in a bourgeois hotel and surrounded by a beautiful garden, this little jewel is my favorite museum in Paris.  It is just the right size to spend a sunny morning or afternoon completely awed by the smooth, undulating works of the sculptor Auguste Rodin.  Strangely enough, many of these massive, priceless sculptures are tucked away in hidden corners of the surrounding garden completely exposed to the elements!  Not far from the famous “Thinker”, the work “The Gates of Hell” is actually against one of the courtyard walls.  With a bit of imagination, you can scare yourself into thinking the door is slowly creeping open…  Inside the museum, there are countless works of art, all clearly the creations of a true master.

The Gates of Hell!! (on your left as you enter the garden...)

Le Penseur - probably "thinking" can someone get me an umbrella?

“The Kiss” - Paris as it should be!

La Maison de la RATP

Coming from rural New England where the closest you have to public transportation is a yellow school bus, I am completely enthralled by the massive subway and bus system running through the French capital (all managed by the RATP - Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens).  Whether you enjoy discovering ancient buses with open air balconies,  wood-paneled subway cars or learning the history of tunneling through Paris, this museum gives a whole new appreciation to the evolution of public transportation.  A popular saying states that there is always a metro station within a five minute walk from anywhere in Paris, so hop a train and come on over!  Afterwards, you will no longer complain about sitting on that flip-down subway seat ever again, a true modern luxury…

Le Musée Carnavalet

Want to see Napoleon’s cuirass (armored breastplate)?  Interested in strolling down the boulevards of Paris with a top hat during the “Belle Epoche”?  Wondering what it was like to live under the regime of terror during the French Revolution?  This museum is filled with furniture, writings, paintings and relics from Paris’ turbulent history.  Walking through the rooms, you can literally relive the monarchy’s last days, the terror of the guillotine, the imperial rule of Napoleon, the urban renewal of the Second Empire and the tortured transformation of Paris into the modern, dynamic city it is today.

Le Musée d’Orsay

Alright, this museum might be considered a “mega-tourist” site, but I still have a special love for beautiful impressionist paintings (just call it my American side - aren’t we all supposed to just love impressionism?).  The museum used to be one of the major train stations in Paris and maintains a stunning architecture integrating the charm and spaciousness of its original function.  It also has a fabulous collection of impressionist masters, including works from Degas, Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh (among other collections).  Despite the well-known name, the museum is nowhere near as crowded as the Louvre.  It is also truly inspiring to spend a few hours simply sitting and admiring these paintings where the breath of a moment is literally captured within the artists’ divinely inspired brushstrokes.

These museums are just a small taste of the hundreds of permanent and temporary art and cultural expositions available in Paris.  The only suggestion I have is take things slowly and really appreciate the places you visit - remember bigger is not always better.  One more thing - if you absolutely must visit the Louvre, for the sake of art appreciation and respect, arrive early and please don’t try to see the entire museum in one day!  And if you’re having cultural overload, Disneyland Paris is only an hour away…

Links:

The History of the “Gare d’Orsay” - Learn about the transformation of the old Parisian train station into the modern Musée d’Orsay.

Giverny - The official website of Claude Monet’s Giverny gardens.  Not far from Paris, this is truly a beautiful place to check out those lily pads!

The Eiffel Tower - This site is pretty much a virtual tourist trap, just like the monument itself!  Well at least it’s free and you don’t have to wait in line.

Les Musées de Paris - This site has all of the museums in Paris sorted by theme, name, etc.  If they could only figure out how to add French accents to the drop down menus…

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1. large, tourist boats on the river Seine [↩]

March 4th, 2009 | Tags: Auguste Rodin, bateaux mouches, breastplate, Carnavalet, Disneyland, Eiffel Tower, Gare d'Orsay, Giverny, Grands Boulevards, impressionism, La Belle Epoche, Le Baiser, Le Penseur, Louvre, metro, Mona Lisa, Monet, Musée d'Orsay, Napoleon, Paris, Portes de l'Enfer, RATP, The Gates of Hell, The Kiss, The Thinker, Van Gogh | Category: History, Le Vagabond, Paris | Comments (3)