The Great Champagne Ripoff
Champagne by Any Other Name...
Ah champagne! That ultimate, luxury French drink. For a mere $150 the bottle of Dom Pérignon, you can sweep that loved one off her feet for Valentine’s Day with bubbles, laughs and sophistication! Who would ever guess that champagne’s world-renown reputation is based more on centuries of good marketing more than anything else.
Although I will probably be kicked out of France for saying this, champagne is really nothing more than sparkling wine! Granted, it has a very sophisticated production and bottling process, but in the end it’s just white wine with trapped secondary fermentation bubbles. In fact, the only reason it’s called “champagne” is because the wine was produced in the Champagne area of France. There are actually many other regions of France (and the world) that produce equally good sparkling wine, but they cannot legally call themselves “champagne” because it is expressly forbidden in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles which, bizarrely, is the text that officially ended World War I (somehow the French managed to slip this in). For example, for about $10, you can drive to the next door Alsace region of France and purchase an excellent bottle of “Crémant d’Alsace” containing just as many bubbles and three times the fun (as it’s three times less expensive)! And there is also great “cava” from Spain and “spumante” from Italy.
The King’s Big Toe
Watch Out for the Gout!
So where did all of this hype start? In the 17th century red wine was all the rage, however it was well known that drinking too much would give you gout1! During that time there was fierce competition between two rival producers of quality red wine, the Burgundy and Champagne regions of France. With a sophisticated advertisement campaign, Burgundy was able to convince King Louis XIV to stop drinking red wine from Champagne because it was obviously the source of his gout (among other ailments). Unfortunately, following the king’s example, everyone else also stopped drinking red wine from Champagne. The quick-witted Champagnois then decided to concentrate instead on their white wine, which happened to be a bit fizzy due to secondary fermentation. They developed a sophisticated processing and bottling method and then marketed the new product to the elite. Always on the lookout for the latest fads and conversation starters, the European noblity loved the bubbles and the rest is history!
RTFL
It may go without saying, but not all champagne is created equal. It’s very important to read the label beforehand. First of all, check that the town on the label is actually in the Champagne region. Usually the city of Reims or Épernay (or thereabouts) is listed; if the label says “Paris” or “Marseille”, then it’s time to leave the gas station store liquor aisle. Another important consideration is whether the champagne taste is dry or sweet. This is usually indicated by the following labels:
| Extra-Brut | Extremely Dry - For those diehards who hate everything sweet about life. |
| Brut | Very Dry - This is the most common type of champagne. It is not fruity or sweet and is good for most seafood or other traditionally white wine dishes. |
| Extra-Sec | A Bit Dry - but drier than merely “Dry” (confused yet?) |
| Sec | Dry - Not fully dry, this is for those of you who like a tinge of sweetness with your white wine. |
| Demi-Sec | Half Dry - Despite the label, this is actually sweet tasting wine and is excellent as a before dinner drink or served with a dessert dish. |
| Doux | Sweet - Finally, something that’s not called “Dry”! - Very sweet tasting wine. |
New Mexico...or Négociant-Manipulant?
Now that we’ve finished the six degrees of dryness, there is another important indication on the label, the producer group. These tiny 2-letter codes indicate who actually produced that expensive bottle of champagne and can be a quick way of determining its relative quality. The three most common abbreviations are below:
| CM | coopérative de manipulation - The bottle was produced from a local cooperative of mixed sources. Quality may vary and it is recommended to use a champagne guide book before purchase. |
| NM | négociant-manipulant - The bottle was produced by a well-known champagne house (or brand) which purchased, blended and produced the champagne from a variety of different sources. These large companies are usually careful about quality and standardization, so the champagne will probably be quite good. |
| RM | récoltant-manipulant- This is the champagne produced by your local family vineyard. Full of tender homemade care, the quality of “RM” bottled champagne is sometimes extraordinary! |
Of course, the one true way of know if you have good champagne is to see if you have a headache the next day - rumor has it that you never get headaches from drinking great champagne - but by then, it’s already too late!
Common Sense Champagning
Here are a Few Tips for the Avid Champagne Drinker:
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Remember all of those bubbles trapped in the champagne bottle? They create a lot of pressure, so it’s always recommended to aim the bottle AWAY from your head or the general public when opening! There’s a reason that the cork is attached to the bottle neck with metal wires…
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Use flutes when drinking champagne. These tall, skinny glasses are designed to keep the bubbles coming and also look very sophisticated to boot!
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When opening a bottle, if you don’t want to douse the person sitting next to you, place a napkin over the cork, aim it away, and slowly twist until you barely feel the pressure push it forward. The cork will slowly inch out until you hear a small fizz sound as it is released. Apply pressure tightly and with a bit of practice you won’t waste one drop.
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Champagne bottles come in ten different sizes with fabulous names (Piccolo, Half, Standard, Magnum, Jeroboam, Rehoboam, Methuselah, Salmanazar, Balthazar and, the mother of all champagne bottles: Nebuchadnezzar!2 ).
Nebuchadnezzar Anyone? - Too Huge to Fit in this Picture!
Regardless of where you end up purchasing your sparkling white wine, please enjoy the sweet sound of that cork popping and those bubbles as they go right to your head! (hiccup)
A Few Good Links:
http://www.domperignon.com - Dom Pérignon was a monk who many credit with inventing champagne. He developed original ways to remove impurities, lighten the color and preseve the bubbles in sparkling wine with the use of a cork and thicker glass (although his original goal was the remove them). This is a snobby, annoying website that is more of an online fashion statement than anything to do with actual champagne!
Le Guide Hachette des Vins - An online guidebook to excellent French wines (and champagne).
A Brief History of Gout - All I can say is thank God for modern medicine!
The Treaty of Versailles, Article 275 - This is the article slipped into the treaty ending World War I that prohibits signatory nations from calling their wines “champagne” (read the text carefully and you’ll eventually figure it out).
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February 11th, 2009 at 6:03 am
Hi,
This is a fantastic post, I am well versed in Champaigne history, and visited the Enernay areea many time on bike. This post has enlightened me even further.
I have alwyas been of the opinion that champaigne is snobby, overrated ans not worth the stupid amounts of money people pay, confirming its snobbiness. Here in Yambol, Bulgaria they make a sparkling wine, which is just as good as any champaigne I have tasted with a price tage you wouldn’t believe. (http://www.bulgarianslivatree.com/2008/08/yambol-sparklingHave you tired joinng enzine.com, they would love posts like this an and up your traffic. Just a thought.
Fond regards Martin
February 11th, 2009 at 2:13 pm
oh my god!
Just can’t believe that you dare writing such things as “Champagne is just sparkling wine” ?!?
Come on!
So basically “Foie-gras” is just some sort of “paté” and “Ferrari” is just some sort of car.
People pretending that should taste some real good Champagne.
Now on the other hand, I can understand that some people prefer the taste of other type of wine, but Champagne will always be Champagne.
February 11th, 2009 at 2:34 pm
Sorry to shock you, but from my experience and I have had many occasions to drink some, champangne is definitely overrated. This is of course not just a personal opinion but a general one having had many discussions with many drinkers over the years on this very subject. It’s funny, but I feel quite guilty, almost ashamed about drinking something that is that expensive as that. Somehow I feel the public is being ripped off from a product that has a too bigger ego. Don’t get me wrong, I love France and have spent much time there touring the regions by bike, so this is not a ‘get at France’ opinion, just an honest view of how I see champagne. I must confess I have tasted some very good champange, but what price you put on that is a matter of choice. The cost to me just puts a bitter taste in my mouth. I have also tasted some excellent sparkling wine here that does compare with many champagnes I have drunk. To me the proof is in the pudding.
I also consider that a locally produced product always taste better when eaten or drunk locally?
Lastly, there was no offence intended here, just my opinion on champagne - Your article is a great piece of informative writing
February 11th, 2009 at 2:34 pm
I was wondering when the French were going to start reacting to my sacrilege!
It is true that there is nothing in the world like a fabulous bottle of champagne. My point was just that there are other equally delicious sparkling white wines produced in other areas of France (and the world), so there’s no need to limit your consumption to champagne, especially if you’re on a limited budget. And, don’t worry, I’ll never confuse fois-gras with pâté (and I also can’t afford a Ferrari anyways…)!
June 1st, 2009 at 12:31 pm
I had occasion some years ago to happen upon a local producer of Vouvray (on the way from Paris to Tourraine). Although the sign in the yard said we could taste (Dégustation), we suprised the maker and his wife who rapidly dressed for their impromtu guests.
Two chilled bottles were brought out with great pride.
Although a sparkling white wine maker outside of Champagne cannot write Champagne, they can of course write Méthode Champenoise on the bottle. The traditional mousseux from Vouvray has a different taste. He had presented a bottle of each; his Vouvray was his own recipe. His méthode champenoise tasted just like champagne to me but I’m no expert. However, I really really really prefer Vouvray, his and others to this day. Others’ mileage may differ.
When a French person says to me that Americans are so good at marketing and they, less so, I reply “Pfffff, look at champagne.”
I heard these rumors–if Champagne (the region) is short on Champagne (the wine), they just bring in some sparkling white wine from nearby and bottle it locally. Same goes for grapes. This is of course illegal. And may not be true.
June 1st, 2009 at 12:48 pm
More excellent marketing : Le Beaujolais Nouveau in October
“C’est une tradition !”
I have never heard anyone say they actually like to drink it.
From http://freeriders.over-blog.net/article-25090762-6.html :
” 107 : C’est le nombre de pays qui ont importé l’année dernière 18,5 millions de bouteilles de beaujolais nouveau, ce qui représente 139.000 hectolitres.
On a dit du Beaujolais qu’il est le 3ème fleuve de Lyon - après le Rhône et la Saône.
Pour une fois que la France crée un Mythe dans le monde, on ne va pas faire la fine bouche. Si Si !! Il n’est pas mauvais le beaujolais Nouveau !! Hé Emile, ou tu as mis la bouteille de Bellet Château Crémât que j’ai ouvert pour nous 2 ?”
Not to be outdone, you can also find chez les cavistes: Le Côte du Rhône Nouveau (oh non…)
June 1st, 2009 at 4:16 pm
Ah I stand corrected (or at least updated). I read in the wiki that the term “méthode champenoise” can no longer be used outside of Champagne (ok my visit to Vouvray was years ago) and “méthode traditionelle” takes its place. Perhaps it was the Vouvray pétillant then that I liked so much.
June 2nd, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Hey Amérloque à Paris! Thanks for all of your comments and introducing us to the “méthode champenoise”. That’s also a funny article about the Beaujolais Nouveau with some funky pics - great subject for a future post this autumn. Talk about a successful marketing ploy! As the first wine of the season, the “Beaujolais Nouveau” has a reputation for tasting not so great yet there are posters and ads all over the place, and everyone runs out to buy the first cases! However, I suppose it’s the unique festive company and jovial ambiance that counts (and it tastes better and better as the night goes on)!